Saturday night after we got back, we all went to Bull and Bush, which is quickly becoming one of our favorite places, to celebrate being back in Gabs. Josh’s host brother from Mochudi came along with us. We ended up dancing for a while, but some of them were a little grabby so we just ended up chilling out at the bar.

Basically, Batswana guys have this unfortunate habit of asking you to marry them, or pronouncing their love for you, especially if you’re legoa, a white person (it actually means “vomited from the sea,” how lovely). Currently, my proposal count stands at 8.

Monday we were supposed to go to the kgotla, the traditional court of the village. Court here as in, the court of a king, not the justice system, though it can serve as either. I was sad that it was cancelled, but I hope we get a chance to go again.

We also had Setswana on Monday, where we spent much of class learning vocab and basic verb constructions. I can now utter such meaningful sentences as “I love food” (ke rata dijo), “I want to eat porridge” (ke batla go ja bogobe) and “stop at the next stop” (o eme mo stopong). Obviously, some of these will be more useful than others.

That afternoon, we went to our internships. Alyssa, Robin, and I were supposed to be working at Holy Cross Hospice, though apparently the name “hospice” doesn’t mean quite the same thing here as it does stateside. We were really hoping for some clinical, semi-hands-on experience, but all we would be doing there is writing proposals and drafting newsletters and stuff, with almost zero patient interaction. I will probably end up working there anyway — it’s once a week for four weeks, and who doesn’t like someone with grant proposal writing experience? — but it looks like the other two will try to move to the orphanage and play with the kids for their internships instead.

Yesterday we had five hours of class. There was a guest lecturer in Enviro, who works for the Botswana Defense Force (the Army) as a doctor. He was super cool! I really enjoyed his class, and we’ll have a few more of his this week. In Community Health Practicum, we went over (for two hours) how to write a questionnaire, and if I can’t do that after TA’ing sociology stats for a semester, I clearly did not earn my keep. In the afternoon, we had a lecture on multiple concurrent partnerships (MCP), a phenomenon which probably accounts for a significant portion of the AIDS spread in Botswana. Apparently monogamy is not such a priority here, especially for men. Bummer.

I will be writing papers and finishing my med school applications for the foreseeable future, so wish me luck and don’t be surprised if the updates aren’t quite as regular as they were in week one. Luckily, tonight we have plans to go see Transformers 2, as we have to get a movie ticket for our Setswana scavenger hunt. So technically, I will be doing my homework.

Ok, traveling back in time a week, to continue updating Mochudi:

Monday 15 June

We started the day all together, going to the DHT (District Health Team, I think) office. It was nice to see all of us, especially after my night of near-solitude with my family. Dr. Solomon, a public health specialist at DHT, lectured us for a while, mostly about what kind of programs were available at the clinics we would be working at.

After that, we split up to our clinics. I am with Josh and Nichole M. (Josh goes to F&M, and Nichole goes to Trinity in SA. Both schools with which I am semi-familiar, yay!) We’re working at Makakatlela Clinic, a clinic without maternity that’s about a ten minute combi ride out of town and a ten-minute walk from my house. For most of the morning, we just weighed babies and took vital signs, not realizing that this made us the most active of the groups.

Apparently, the clinic had two real nurses, Ivy and Mma ANC (whose real name I never learned, or forgot). You could easily tell them by their capes. We also had Tebe, the PMTCT (prevention of mother to child transmission) counselor, and the other clinic workers. The other clinic workers did just about everything the nurses did with the exception of giving immunizations and doing consultations with patients. They included Seloi, the Fat Lady, Moagi, and the cleaning ladies. They let us do all kinds of things, including weighing babies and taking vital signs. Ivy also spent a lot of time with us going through the things we had to research for our paper on our time in Mochudi. I have about 15 front-back pages of my notebook (it’s one of the smaller ones) of notes that we took from Ivy and the others.

That afternoon, we went on a house call with Seloi and the Fat Lady (I’ll explain her name later). When we got to the house, we saw an elderly woman just lying outside. I don’t remember her name, and it would be wrong of me to tell it if I knew anyway (sure, HIPPA doesn’t apply here, but this is ethics). I’ll just call her Mma Sukiri, which means Ms. Diabetes. She was, as her name might suggest, diabetic, as well as hypertensive. She had not eaten or had any water in five days, and was basically in a diabetic coma when we got there. We spent an hour (at least) holding her up and feeding her watered down bogobe (porridge) with a small amount of sugar and water. But because the doctor was not at the clinic that day, we couldn’t do anything else. We ended up putting her back in her house with lots of blankets for warmth and told the kids who lived in the house nearby to come check on her during the night.

This was definitely a jarring introduction to medicine in Botswana. If the doctor wasn’t there, the ambulance probably couldn’t do anything. Most people at the hospital have to be referred by a local clinic, and the doctor is usually the only one who can refer. And this woman had no one to take care of her, to sit with her and make sure she ate. It was unbelievable.

I think all three of us hoped, but didn’t necessarily expect, that Mma Sukiri would live through the night. Tune in next time to see what happened, because right now, I need to go shower and eat breakfast before class.

JTM

(Edited because I was cranky when I wrote this post, and didn’t intend to be such a grouch.)

Saturday 13 June

This morning we went to Main Mall, one of the four major malls in Gabs. Most of the time, it’s just your average open-air shopping center, complete with grocery store, Pie City, and Mr. Price. But on weekends, it turns into a downright fiesta! Tons of vendors come from all over to sell their wares. We have this scavenger hunt assignment for our Setswana class, which includes buying a handicraft of some kind. Well, today I got mine. I bought a statue of a family (of four… aww, ain’t we cute?) made of what I think is ebony, and it is absolutely gorgeous. I also bought a painting by this guy, Wesu, that we met over at the mall. Again, very cool. I don’t know what the plan is with gifts — I love you guys, but I have luggage considerations to take into account. Shoot me an email if you have something your heart truly desires, and I’ll see what I can do.

So we wandered around Main Mall for a bit, taking in all the beautiful carvings, paintings, etc. I am pretty sure I will be decorating my room in a Batswana motif for the coming year! It was loads of fun. Josh was the bravest among us and decided to try the street vendor’s sausage, which he said was quite good even though it was loaded down with tomato sauce (which is a kind of sweet ketchup). One thing I must say: the Batswana do love their sauce. Food tends to drown in it.

Sunday 14 June

Today we arrived in Mochudi! I only had a backpack’s worth of stuff for the week, but I had pretty much everything I needed (with the notable exceptions of shampoo and a razor, both of which I forgot in Gabs). My family was the Masire family. There is a mom, Joyce, and someone who I think might be a dad. But even after a week, I still wasn’t 100% sure on his relationship to the family, and I never did learn his name. He had two gold teeth and enjoyed cricket. I slept in a room with my 16-year-old sister, Wipelo, who I thought was a boy at first until she started walking around our room with no shirt on (I figured it out pretty fast after that). I also had two brothers, Karabo, who was 19 and out of school, and Kutlwano (sounds like Kuklano) who was somewhere in the general vicinity of 10. Their cousin, Katlego (sounds like Kakleho), who is 18 and in his last year of school, is their cousin, but he lives with them. He was actually the first one I met, because as I came into the house, I was confronted by Katlego at the back door, holding a headless chicken by the feet and pulling out the feathers. This, I quickly discovered, would be lunch. I had to help dismantle the chicken. It was a very interesting experience, though perhaps less precise than major surgery. (Just think: Hi, welcome to the family, here’s a bird to dismantle. Not the most welcoming performance ever.)

I also quickly discovered that Batswana, as a whole, watch a LOT of TV. This made my first night very awkward, especially because nothing was subtitled and I hadn’t really figured out anyone’s name. So I read Poisonwood Bible, which I had brought along (and is completely awesome so far), giving my family the impression that I was standoffish and awkward. Yay! What a great start.

Also, what I said about portions here? Take that x10. The fact that I managed to stuff all that food down my gullet every night is, I am fairly certain, a feat of nature. I consistently got portions that were bigger than my face, of things like sour milk sorghum and noodles with tomato sauce (yes, the sweet ketchup strikes again!) and mayonnaise. And every night, it was the same combination: starch + meat. I almost cried when Kutlwano brought me an apple one night. They also apparently drink nothing with their meals, which meant I was sitting there with my blue Nalgene gulping down half a litre of water with my family looking at me like I was growing a third hand right before their eyes.

Yesterday, we went over to Old Naledi, the poorest part of Gaborone. There’s about 50,000 people crammed into 4 km x 1 km of city, with most people living at least ten to a house that probably isn’t much bigger than the main room of our apartment. We were supposed to play with the kids, but instead they took us on a tour in our combi (a minibus, essentially). Even though I’ve driven through the “bad” parts of Philly, this was absolutely heartbreaking. But I felt bad, because I had a similar feeling to when we went on safari on Monday. I wish we’d actually been able to get out and talk to people, play with the kids, and do something tangible to help. We are going back in two weeks, and hopefully we will actually be able to DO, instead of just SEE, this time.

I also moved into a different room last night. One of my flatmates, Nichole, does not have a computer, so she agreed to switch into the room without the working ethernet box. So now, I have semi-consistent Internet access! I still haven’t figured out how to set up Skype, but when I do, my name is jane.t.morris, and I would love to talk to people!

Today is pretty much a free day, so the flatmates and I did laundry. And wouldn’t you know, the laundry machines are the same brand as back at BMC.

Sunday, we are off to Mochudi, a village about 60 km out of Gaborone, to work in the clinics. No internet, so this may be my last update for a while. Hope all is well back in the States.

JTM

Last night, all eight of the dorm people got together and made MASSIVE amounts of pasta with meat sauce. We all sat around the table in our apartment and were totally adorable. Then we played Uno, which ended up lasting about an hour. Then I read for a while before sleep. I’ve finished The Pelican Brief and I’m totally tearing through my little library.

Today was marathon class. We had class (first Pub and Enviro, then Community Health) from 9 until 1, then 2:30 to 4:30 today. Part of that was also a lecture on Setswana culture that ended up being some of the most fun I had all day. We also managed to steal the password to get on the UB student wireless network, but apparently they don’t have wi-fi in the library (which, like, if you’re going to have wi-fi, why not have it in the library?) so we still haven’t figured out the hot spots. Apparently the ethernet jack in my room doesn’t work, so my updates may be a bit sporadic. We’re on to grilled cheese tonight — we are college students, after all — so I’ll see you folks later.

JTM

On the 6th, we finally moved from our lovely hotel into the dorms and homestays. I am staying in the dorm (there’s a long story there too, but ask me if you’re really interested) with seven of the other program participants. Four of us girls are together, three of the other girls are together, and then one of our boys is all by himself. We’re all in the same complex, but the three groups are in different buildings, all pretty much next door to each other. So we’ve all become quite close. Six are in homestays, and the last girl still wasn’t here at this point.

Much of the day was spent moving into the dorms, then we all got together to go to the Botswana National Soccer team’s game against New Zealand. Alyssa, one of my roommates, and I moved away from our group and stood with all the crazy fans who were singing and dancing and stuff. Robin, one of the homestay girls, came over too, and it was CRAZY. A really loud lady by the name of Nana took us under her wing and spent the entire game trying (and failing) to teach us some of the songs. She was apparently a total perfectionist, so our dancing was clearly not up to par. Whatever, we still had so much fun. Alyssa almost got carried out of the stadium by a Motswana man, and one of our boys had to come to our rescue yet again. A bunch of us went out again that night, this time first to River Walk Mall, where I discovered Windhoek beer (brewed in Namibia, and so tasty) and my understanding of 20-overs cricket, and then to Lizard Lounge. We met a couple of Irish guys, and I ended up hanging out with one of them until we went back to the dorm.

On Sunday, we climbed Kgale Hill, a hill that is totally more like a mountain that is in Gaborone. We all climbed up to the top, led by Batsi, and had a whale of a time. I don’t normally consider myself an outdoorsy kind of girl, but I had SO. MUCH. FUN. Again, pictures forthcoming. We were all so tired, we came back to the dorms after dinner and didn’t want to do anything. Five of us ended up watching about 45 minutes of Love Actually, at which point Alyssa almost fell asleep and Josh declared his hatred of romantic comedies, which pretty much killed that one.

Yesterday was our first day of classes. Our Setswana teacher is totally crazy, but she’s super enthusiastic. We had a one hour lecture about Batswana history — apparently it used to be called Bechuanaland because the Brits can’t say anything right — and then went on a safari. We saw elephants, rhinos, impala, hyenas (who were in a chained paddock… lame.), warthog, wildebeest, and more. The elephants were like 20 feet away! Pictures forthcoming, again. Then we went to Riverwalk and ate burgers at Wimpy’s. Four of us, myself included, got the Champ, which is a cheeseburger with a fried egg and bacon on top. It’s so fun, but I’m pretty sure my arteries are about gone right now.

I’ll fill in about today, tomorrow. We’re going to go play Uno now.

Love!
JTM

I arrived in Gaborone first out of anybody in my group, at about 8:30 Thursday morning. I met Batsi, who is the head of the program, and Rapula, his assistant, at the airport. We waited about an hour for the next two, Nichole S. and Emma, to show up, then we went to the hotel, where we are still. The hotel - the Kidron Suites - is so lovely, and we are getting fed so well! Emma, Nichole, and I are living in a triple together, although we are actually moving out later this morning. Most of the other people from the program arrived over the course of the day. It is a really nice group, everyone seems so sweet and I think we are going to have a ton of fun together.

Yesterday was mostly devoted to orientation meetings. We were supposed to start at 8, but Batsi had to go to the airport to pick up three more of our group, whose flight was delayed in Amsterdam. So, meetings meetings meetings all day, but we decided during the course of the day that we are going to take a trip up to Victoria Falls as a group together at some point.

Then we went over to the Kgale mall and got cell phones so that we can all contact each other during the program. If anyone would like to call and chat at any point, to reach me you can call:

011 267 7272 0310 (from a landline) or +1 267 7272 0310 (from a mobile)

Do remember, though, I am actually here taking classes, and the East Coast is six hours behind me. So as I write this, not that early in the morning (it’s almost 7) many of my lovely Mawr friends are just going to sleep. You know, or not. If you want to call me, it’s much cheaper than me calling any of you, and it’s only about $0.02 per minute on Skype. It’s, like, P1 (that’s one pula, or about $0.14) for me to even text the states. Don’t be offended if I don’t pick up, but I’d love to hear from folks over the course of the summer.

Last night we all went out to the Bull and Bush, where I actually met a Swattie who is also studying at UB! What a small world indeed. I tried the national beer of Botswana, Saint Louis, which kind of tasted like seltzer beer, weirdly light. We all had a ton of fun and danced the night away until about 2345. when these creepy 50 year old Indian guys started trying to get up all over the girls. We decided since we all had to be up early this morning (though not as early as me) we’d just peace out. So much fun though! Botswana is amazing, and I can’t wait to tell you more about it.

PS - Apparently ‘Gab-o-roan’ is not the right pronunciation. It’s ‘Hab-o-ron-eh’. Just correcting a misconception I myself held for, like, ever.

Love from Gabs,
JTM

Unfortunately, Delta did check my bags straight through to Gaborone, so as of now, I have literally the clothes on my back until tomorrow morning at 8:30 when I get off the plane in Gabs. I will be taking advantage of the sweet shower in my hotel room to wash and dry my things so that I’m not a total grungefest tomorrow morning when I meet everybody! I, on the other hand, will be in the tub that is approximately the size of a swimming pool. Pictures to follow!

I’m now checked into my hotel, and I am going to go downstairs and get me some dinner because I am starving. Two meals in 15.5 hours is not enough, and I still look semi-presentable so hopefully they’ll actually let me in downstairs. Then it’s off to bed - I’ve an early flight tomorrow and I still have to be ready to face a day of meeting all my program folks!

Love from Africa,
JTM

You will all be happy to hear that my flight from Austin was downright uneventful. I slept for about an hour, then started Malcolm Gladwell’s The Tipping Point, which I’m rather enjoying. Got to tickle the sociological brain cells a little, to keep the blood flowing. The girl next to me was playing her iPod at maximum volume (or so it seemed to me, her lovely seatmate) and I couldn’t help but chuckle that I heard Miley Cyrus. Seriously, if you’re going to assault my ears from seat 34B, do it with something less ridiculous.

They actually have a pianist in the food court here. At the moment, she’s playing “Mamma Mia” by ABBA, which is almost jarring considering that I’m sitting between a Qdoba, a McDonalds, and a TGI Friday’s. A piano player is something I expect more at, like, Nordstroms, not in Terminal E of Atlanta Hartsfield-Jackson Airport.

I’m probably going to go grab a quick dinner, then get something i can take on the plane that will still be edible in ten (or more, who knows) hours. Unfortunately, this rules out pretty much everything fresh. I have a sixteen hour flight ahead of me, dwarfing the twelve-ish hour flight that has been my longest up to this point. Note to self: actually stand up at some point during this bad boy, or things will get ugly.

And now to go load massive amounts of music onto my Zen. I’m pretty sure the battery on my laptop, wonderful as it is, is not going to hold me for 15 hours of entertainment. Thank god for books - at least they don’t lose charge over time.

Ooh! Exciting news. Apparently, the plane I’m on is a Boeing 777, which is one of the cool ones with the individual video screens, even back in Coach. (At least, it does on Continental. Delta being an unknown quantity, I’m going to hope for the best.) This will make this interminable flight at least a little shorter.

Much love to all as I leave the States!
JTM

Had a lovely dinner with the family at Hula Hut. I doubt there will be such quality Mexanesian food in Gabs, no matter how wonderful the city may be. Actually, I doubt there will be any Mexanesian food at all, though my time in Philly has accustomed me to the idea. Sad as it may be.

It is totally unreal that in twelve hours, I’ll be boarding a plane that will, in a roundabout fashion, take me to another continent. Just to let you know, there will probably be a lot of amazement contained in the forthcoming posts, but come on. Give me a break. I am going to a different continent, for pete’s sake.

It’s already June 2, and in Botswana, it’s about 7:45 in the morning. Time to get up! (No wait, that doesn’t seem right…)

JM

My itinerary, as I know it thus far:
June 2 - Leave Austin, fly to Atlanta
Depart Atlanta
June 3 - Arrive in Johannesburg, South Africa (I’ll be staying overnight in Johannesburg)
June 4 - Depart Johannesburg, arrive in Gaborone, Botswana
June 5-7 - Orientation
June 8 - Classes begin

I leave Gaborone on July 22, arriving back in the States on the 23rd. Sadly, I won’t see any of my Austin friends after this point, as I’m going straight back to Philly from Atlanta.

I look forward to hearing from people! Probably no posts again for a while. I’m going to enjoy the Texas sunshine for as long as I can.

JTM